What to look for in dog training treats

When choosing dog training treats, you want to use something that is small, and easily kept in your pocket or a treat pouch. Small size is important because they are easy to carry around, and are easy to toss to your pup with a quick, “yes!” when he is displaying positive, wanted behavior.

When it comes to consistency, something soft is ideal because it is easy, and quickly chewed up. However, for dogs who are treat-picky, or just don’t enjoy the soft texture, something crunchy is just fine, as long as it is small in size. There are several brands of treats that are made specifically for training.

Some dog training favorites

There are many different brands, and many different kinds of training treats on the market to choose from. Sometimes, it may take a few tries to find something your pup is really driven by.

Here are some dog trainer favorites:

1. Zuke’s Mini Naturals

With less than 3 calories per treat, no soy, corn, wheat, or artificial colors or flavors, Zuke’s Minis are great for training. Whether your pup is 10 lbs or 100 lbs, they are a perfect size. They are small, soft and chewy, yet sturdy, come in several different flavors, and won’t fall apart in your pockets.

2. Charlee Bear Dog Treats

From small round crunchy treats to chewy meaty pieces, to freeze-dried treats, and everything in between, Charlee Bear Dog Treats are natural and grain-free. A very popular low-calorie brand that has a variety of different treats in many flavors, finding one that your dog loves, probably won’t be difficult!

3. Deli Meats

If you don’t need anything small to particularly keep with you for quick reinforcement and are just looking for something high value, check the fridge! Treats such as small pieces of deli meats or cheese are great for training when you are working on your dog’s recall.

4. Kibble

Another great training treat is your dog’s very own everyday kibble! With its small size, it makes it easy to toss into your pocket, and you already know your dog likes it! Another great thing about using kibble for training treats is that if you and your dog’s training routine is around feeding time, you can take a handful of his regular portion to be used during the training exercises.

Positive reinforcement training

Positive reinforcement can be a very powerful and very effective training tool. However, it’s more than just praising your dog for everything they do.

A very important thing to remember when you are using positive reinforcement is that dog’s live in the moment. So when using this training method, be sure to praise your pup the moment you get the behavior you desire.

Clicker training is a great way to do this. With a quick click, you can instantly mark the good behavior. If you don’t have a clicker, use an affirmation such as “YES!” This makes it easier when you are out and about with your dog and don’t want to carry a clicker.

Using a verbal affirmation is also great for when you aren’t necessarily training, but want to quickly mark the behavior you are pleased with. Most dogs respond very well to clicker training (or affirmation word training). This kind of training also helps to build confidence, which is especially beneficial to dogs who lack in this department.

Final Thoughts

Make sure to pick the best dog training treats for your dog. You may need to try different treats until you find which one is best. Use the training treats with positive reinforcement so that you stop worrying about your dog and start having fun together!

If you are from Philadelphia, PA then read my Philadelphia Dog Training Costs article to find a dog trainer near you. Also, take a look at the following articles to learn how much exercise your dog needs:

• How Much Exercise Does A Dog Need Everyday?
• How Much Exercise Does A Puppy Need?
• Dog Exercise Needs By Breed (Basic Guide & Time Chart)

This article was written by Abi Pennavaria. Abi is a dog mom, avid veterinary volunteer, and co-author of the Saved By The Bark dog blog. She enjoys sharing tips and tricks for volunteers and animal lovers through thoughtfully researched blog posts and is working to become a veterinarian.

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So you just adopted a puppy or rescue dog. Wouldn’t it be nice if you could snuggle with your dog right away with no problems at all? Unfortunately, you have some work to do. You will want to start crate training your dog at night starting on the first night that you adopt him.

And this is a must if you just adopted a puppy. Older rescue dogs may not need crate training, but you should still use a crate for the first night.

First, let’s cover the reasons to use a crate for your dog. And the tricks you will need to know to get him into the crate.

Crate Training Basics: 4 Reasons to Use a Crate

1. A crate can act as a den for your dog, a place to sleep and feel safe.

Dogs have an instinct to sleep in a den. As a result, they take to a crate easily. And they do not like to pee where they sleep.

2. They are also good for protecting your belongings while you are not home.

If you adopted a puppy, then they chew everything while they are teething. A newly adopted rescue dog may be anxious and chewing things can alleviate that anxiety. The good news is that rescue dogs should be comfortable with crates.

3. Insecure dogs feel safer in a crate.

Do not use a crate that is too big for your dog. It should only be big enough for him to stand up and turn around. The small confined space offers security for the insecure types.

4. Stopping “messes” in your house.

Use the crate for housetraining your puppy at night and during the day. It is the best way to stop peeing in the house because dogs don’t like to soil their own “den”. If you let your puppy free-roam in your house, they will pee in one corner and sleep somewhere else. This is one of the best uses for dog crates.

Crate Training Your Dog the First Night: 5 Tips to Get Him Inside

Crate training your dog at night does require you to get him in the crate in the first place. Try the following tips to get him to go inside and enjoy staying in there.

1. Introduce your dog to the crate on the first day.

Puppies are easy to get inside of crates. Make getting your dog into the crate a positive experience by repeatedly throwing in treats. Then change it up by giving him a treat AFTER he gets into the crate.

Older adopted dogs may already be familiar with crates. Hopefully, they are used to them and do not have negative associations with them. You will find out how they feel about the crate when you throw treats inside. If he does not go into the crate, then he has a negative view of them (see tip #2 below).

2. Feed meals and hide treats in the crate.

This is an extension of tip #1, but instead of throwing a treat inside, feed his meals inside the crate. And on the first night, it would be wise if you divided up the nighttime meal into 2 or 3 portions. That would be 2-3 times that you can get him inside the crate.

But before you feed him those partial meals, hide treats under toys or blankets. And do that when he is not in the room to see you do it. He will smell them. Hopefully, he will view the crate as a place where treats are to be found.

3. Keep a chew toy inside.

Puppies need to chew and older gods may chew out of anxiousness from being in a new environment. Kongs are popular especially if they are filled with food or peanut butter. I think it is better to stuff bones with food. You can buy hollow bones from most any pet store. Since Kongs are made out of rubber, it can be a health risk if they chew off and swallow pieces of it.

4. Only use a crate for pleasant experiences: treats, food, toys, and sleep.

Do NOT use the crate for punishment or it will be hard to get your dog in there at night.

5. Use a simple command to get him to go in the crate

Training your dog to get in his crate at night is the main focus of this article. Try something simple like “crate”, “bed”, “sleep”, etc. Combine the command with pointing to the crate with one hand and have a treat in your other hand. Then close the door when he gets inside.

Tips for Crate Training at Night

Start crate training your puppy on his first night.

It is a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom for the first few nights, especially if you have other dogs so he doesn’t feel isolated. You can try moving the crate farther away each night. In time you can move it to where you want him to sleep each night.

If he cries or whines at night it is either from loneliness, fear, separation or because he has to pee.

But it could be because he has to pee. Take him for a quick walk right before you go to bed. If you are like me, you are super sleepy right before you decide to go to bed. It’s annoying taking your dog for a quick pee break that late, but puppies can’t hold it overnight.

So if he cries after the pee break, then its a test for you. Just deal with it. Do not yell or bang on the crate. That will not help. You are going to lose sleep if you adopt a puppy, Ignore him and don’t open the door.

You can use a pen along with a crate for overnight. Put puppy pee pads in the dog-pen area so he can relieve himself.

Make the crate as comfortable as possible. Put a dog bed or blankets on the floor of the crate. Also, include a bowl of water, but not a lot of water. Just put enough water to last the night.

Also, partially cover the crate to make it den-like. My dog’s crate resembles a small cave.

Make sure your puppy is tired at bedtime by playing during the evening. Take him out for a quick pee break and then get him into the crate with your command.

Final Notes for Crate Training at Night

One advanced option is to plug in an Adaptil diffuser near the puppy’s bed. This gives off the same pheromone as a nursing dog mom and helps the puppy feel safe and secure so they drift off to sleep, instead of the puppy crying at night.

Crate training a dog takes time and consistency. Don’t be discouraged and just keep putting him in the crate each night.

Note: You should not crate your dog for too long. They need exercise and interaction. Puppy max time is 4 hrs. You should consider a dog walker for the days you are at work.

When to Stop Crate Training a Dog

Don’t stop using the crate until you are sure they are housebroken. If you stop crate training too soon, then you may undo everything. You will have to start over. Once you know your dog is “good”, you don’t need to lock them in the crate. It is a good idea to leave the door open as it can become their own personal space.

Also, keep the crate because it’s good if they have surgeries, or you need to put them in the crate for some reason. Reasons to use the crate after he has been trained is if you have workers in your home, or maybe children or an elderly person. You may have to lock the lovable monster away for a little while.

Signs You are Done with the Crate

So how do you know when to stop crate training? When will your dog be ready to free roam your place? When he stops peeing, chewing or barking.

The biggest reason for crate training your dog is so they do not go to the bathroom INSIDE your house. If they can hold it and you give them regular walks, then you don’t need the crate for that reason anymore.

The second reason for crate training your dog is so they don’t destroy possessions that you love. My dog chewed up my favorite baseball hat. I was sad and mad. I was out and the hat smelled like me – he was lonely. You can stop using the crate if he only chews on his chew toys.

The final reason to stop using the crate is if he doesn’t bark all day when you are gone. Dogs with separation anxiety may never be done with the crate. But instead of using the crate for his entire life, you should definitely take him to obedience classes.

Another option is to use a baby gate with an open crate in a room. That entire area becomes their den with the crate acting as his sleeping area. The kitchen or a spare bedroom are good options.

If you are interested, I have a few articles that may be of interest to you. Check out the First-Time Dog Owner Tips and How to Walk a Dog That Pulls articles if they apply to you. And if you are from Philadelphia, I have an article on 14 dog training schools in Philly and their costs. Good luck!

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This is such a basic thing that most people don’t think to ask, “So how do I walk a dog?” I think some people believe you just hold onto the leash and that’s it. Let’s get the basics out of the way on how to walk a dog.

The basics are a collar, a leash, how to hold the leash, and finally the walking part. Oh, and you need a dog. Consider adopting from a dog rescue.

If you already know the basics, then skip below for:

• How to walk a dog on a leash
• How to walk a dog that pulls
• How to train your dog to walk beside you

You need to stay focused on the safety of the dog, especially if you are a new dog owner or are watching someone’s dog. Get yourself quality equipment (collar, harness, leash), knowledge of dog behavior and learn how to control your dog.

Types of Collars and Harnesses

Make sure to have a collar (or harness) and a leash that are the appropriate sizes. Just get a basic collar that fits and won’t slip off.

There are a number of other types of collars: choke collars, pinch collars and more. But let’s just stick to the basics. A simple collar made of nylon webbing with a quick release buckle should be fine.

Sometimes collars don’t give you the control you need. Other options of a connection point from the leash to the dog is the easy walk harness or a gentle leader.

I do not have a lot of experience with the gentle leader, so I can’t comment on them. But for harnesses, the Easy Walk harness is absolutely fantastic. You can also read my article on the Easy Walk and how to use it to stop your dog from pulling.

How to Hold a Dog Leash

The most common dog leash ordinance that I’ve seen is a maximum of a 6’ leash. So get a 6’ or shorter leash. Do not get an extendable leash for a new dog. You need to control the dog, and extendable leashes do not allow that.

As a dog walker, I put my hand through the loop of the leash and then slip the leash webbing between my middle and index fingers. That allows me to grab part of the leash below the loop with my hand.

The leash through my fingers is what makes it easy to grab the leash with my fist. Sometimes I will remove the leash from between my fingers and quickly wrap the leash around my wrist. I do that when I see a potential problem (read my article about dog walking dangers).

That is the approach I use until I know how a new dog I’m walking acts on a leash. You should consider doing the same until you find what works for you.

One more thing. Most articles mention holding the leash in your left hand because that’s what professional trainers and fancy dog show handlers do. I say use your dominant hand, right or left. Your choice.

How To Walk A Dog On A Leash

You must be in control of the dog, not the other way around. Some people call it the alpha dog or pack leader approach. Whatever. Be in control for the safety of everyone, including your dog.

A shorter leash gives you more control than a longer one. That’s why extendable leashes are bad to use in the beginning.

A great technique to show dominance is to be the first one to walk out of the door, not your dog. Continue to open and close the door if the dog tries to go first. Repeat as many times as necessary.

If you are not even in control of your dog at the door, how are you going to be in control outside? [Click to Tweet]

Your goal is to walk with a slack leash. Not dragging the dog behind you or having the dog pull you. You also want to keep the dog on the same side as the hand that you are using to hold the leash.

Don’t allow him to cross your path. A dog that circles around you can literally make you trip and fall.

So the ideal situation is to walk your dog with a slack leash and to have the dog walking alongside you. Simple, right? It is simple if the dog never pulls.

How To Walk A Dog That Pulls

Actually, you don’t want to learn how to walk a dog that pulls. You want to learn how to stop the pulling so you can have a pleasant walk.

Once you stop the pulling, the walking part becomes much easier. You need to teach him that if they pull you stop walking, and they don’t get treats or get to walk farther.

There is no shortage of articles on how to walk a dog that pulls. But the actual techniques are the same from article to article.

The Techniques to Stop Pulling

Here is my list of techniques to stop the pulling:

• Practice without distractions.
• Stopping and changing direction when he pulls.
• Positive reinforcement with treats.
• Raising the bar by varying your speed and frequently changing direction.

Try walking your dog on a leash in your house at first, then in your yard. Start with short sessions, maybe 5 minutes. And use treats as rewards.

The rewards are for when your dog does what you want, and that is to have him follow you. So each time the dog pulls, immediately stop. Then turn around and walk in the opposite direction.

Just like with the door, you will have to repeat this step over and over. Stop and turn, stop and turn, stop and …as many times as it takes.

Reward with treats each time he follows you or when he stops. You can also use the treats to lure him back to your side. Use positive verbal communication when he does what you want.

Then mix things up by varying your walking speed. Sometimes fast and sometimes slow. And remember to do full stops with changes in speed and direction. Start decreasing the treats as he progresses.

Walking Your Dog on a Leash Outside

When you start having success in the house or yard, then take him outside. But the process is the same, just with more distractions. Stop and change direction if he starts to pull. And use treats as rewards the same as you did in your yard (decrease them as he improves).

It will be challenging when you pass other dogs or people. You can try a gentle leader or an easy walk if you are having problems.

You can allow some pulling to the side of you for sniffing and peeing. Allow them time to smell the world. Use gentle leash pressure if they get distracted. Never pull or jerk the leash.

So it will be annoying at first to constantly stop and change direction each time he pulls. But that’s what you have to do. There is no way around that. Just keep doing it and you will start to see improvements.

How To Train Your Dog To Walk Next To You

The command “heel” means to have your dog walk directly next to you, not behind or in front of you. And he has to match your pace: stopping when you stop and walking when you walk.

Being a dog walker, I feel that sit, stay, come and heel are the most important commands. I don’t need about any of the other commands. Heel is the final command you need if you want to be able to walk your dog without a leash.

Keep in mind that I’m a not a dog trainer, so this particular training method is out of my range of expertise. This is a big subject and worthy of its own article. But this command is the end goal – having total control of your dog.

I walk my dog off leash when there are no other dogs or people around. He goes to bathroom quicker when he is off leash. DO NOT walk your dog off leash unless you have total control of your dog.

The Techniques to Have Your Dog Walk Beside You

To teach your dog to walk beside you, just repeat the steps above but now the treats are to lure him next to you and if he stays by your side. Start in your house or in your yard.

Start slowly and only take a few steps at a time. This is an advanced technique, so make it easy for him. Walk slowly and hold a treat out in front of you. And if he veers off to the side or pulls ahead, stop immediately. Lure him back to your side with a treat and start again.

As he improves, decrease the treats until he can walk by your side without getting treats. Then try it outside where there are more distractions and smells.

Good luck and I hope you are able to walk your dog on a leash without him pulling. It just takes time and patience. If you are interested, I found a link that lists some of the top dog training websites. Just in case you found training your dog a lot of fun and want more.

The post How To Walk A Dog That Pulls On A Leash appeared first on Fairmount Pet Service.

There are 15 companies based in Philadelphia that offer various dog training classes and I found the cost for 9 of them. The types of classes are either group or private. The private classes are either in their facility or in your home.

They have classes for puppies and adult dogs. Some also have behavior modification classes for dogs with issues.

Some of the websites are either difficult to read or offer very little information. But there are other sites where they provide a lot of detail. Unfortunately, they don’t always include their dog training costs. Good luck finding the dog training class that is right for your dog.

Costs for Group or Group & Private Dog Training Classes (as of 9/4/19)

Here are the 15 dog obedience schools in Philadelphia and the cost for their training classes. Nine of them show the cost for their dog training classes on their websites But 5 of them do not provide the cost. I also list the type of classes they provide and have a link to their website The first 6 offer group only or group & private classes.

Canine Epstein

Locations 19136

The cost for their puppy training class is $100 for 5 classes ($20 per class). The cost is $150 for the adult dog basic training class also for 5 classes \ weeks ($30 per class). It’s $22 for a single dog training class. All the classes are group classes.

Central Bark Philadelphia

Location: 19146

The cost for 3 of their dog training classes is $180 for 6 classes ($30 per class). Those classes are for puppies and basic and intermediate for older dogs. They also have an advanced dog training class that costs $200 for 10 classes ($20 per class). It’s $22 for a single dog training class. It appears that the classes are group given the per class cost.

Opportunity Barks

Locations: Old City (19106) & East Falls (19129)

The cost for their puppy starter class is $175 for 5 classes ($35 per class). They have a single puppy socialization class for $15. The adult dog starter training cost is also $175 for 5 classes. The intermediate dog training cost is $150 for 4 classes ($37.50 per class). They have individual classes on certain techniques for $40. I believe they are all group classes.

Pet Parent Allies

Location: 19123

Their private dog training cost is $100 per hour. They have a single dog obedience class which costs $65. The cost of 4 different dog obedience classes is $200 ($50 per class).

The Towne Barker

Location: 19123

The single private or group dog training cost is $90. The cost for 6 classes is $240 ($40 per class).

Tuff Pup Training

Location: 19125

They have many types of private classes. And all the dog training classes are 60-minutes long, 6 total classes and a total cost of $665 ($111 per class). The group class option is 6 classes for $220 ($37 per class).

Costs for Private Dog Training Classes (no group options)

Noble Hound

Location: your home

They have many different classes listed by puppy, dog or behavior problems. Their dog and puppy consultation classes are $125. The dog and puppy basics training class cost is $500 for 5 classes ($100 per class). The advanced puppy training cost is $950 for 10 classes ($95 per class). Their dog behavior consultation is $185 if you have a dog with problems. They have a behavior modification course that costs $500 for 5 lessons ($100 per class). They also have individual classes on different techniques for $100 per class.

Praiseworthy Pets

Location: your home

The initial 90-minute consultation cost is $100. No other cost or classes are listed. I believe the classes are private but double-check when you contact them. Check their website for the many neighborhoods they service. They also offer cat training.

The Philly Pack

Location: 19145

Their private dog training cost is $100 per hour at their facility or $250 in your home. The initial consultation cost is $25. They have a 4-day socialization program that costs $450 ($113 per day).

Dog Training Classes (no costs listed)

Camp Bow Wow

Location: 19154

They offer basic & intermediate dog training classes, as well as private classes. They accept all ages of dogs and behavior levels.

Gentle Approach

Location: not listed

It’s hard to read the text on this site but it seems like the owner has a lot of testimonials.

K-9 Training

Location: Center City

They offer private obedience training, dog behavior counseling, and puppy classes. They have a page of information on each type of dog training classes, so read them for more information.

Philly Unleashed

Location: 19130

They offer group classes, private lessons and training walks. The page for Training Walks has a 404 error (page not found) so you’ll have to contact them for more information.

Ruby Dog

Location: not listed

They offer leash training, crate training, obedience and manners, puppy training and help with rescue dogs.

Woof n Stuff

Location: South Philly

They offer leash training, basic commands, help with separation anxiety, and puppy training.

Disclaimer: I am not endorsing any of the pet businesses listed on this page. I do not personally know any of the owners. This is simply a listing of dog training costs that I compiled for people needing that service.

Additional Pet Service Rates

I have an article on the rates and cost for every type of pet service. The article is called Pet Services Rates but it also includes other subjects like Philly dog parks, pet-friendly hotels, 24-hour emergency vets, and adoption locations. Check it out if you are interested in other pet services located in the city.

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I have found that the Easy Walk Harness is the easiest and simplest training tool for walking dogs that like to pull. I can’t speak highly enough at how fantastic the harness is for stopping your dog from walking YOU! It is a simple, yet very effective, training tool. And nearly everyone I’ve told about it was extremely thankful.

I learned about the harness at the first dog training class for my dog. He liked to pull all the time. There were about 8 people in the class and it was held above a pet store. The trainer went into detail about why the Easy Walk was so effective and that we should consider getting one.

After the class, EVERYONE was in the store buying one. I didn’t even need to use it more than two weeks before I had my dog walking beside me.

How is an Easy Walk Harness correctly attached

Above is a photo of my dog’s easy walk harness. I only undo the buckle on the tan webbing as you see here.,

There are 2 quick release buckles on the harness. Each buckle is on a different colored webbing. One of those colored sections has a D-ring and one does not. The D-ring is the “D” shaped metal connection point for the leash. The buckle on that webbing is the only one you undo. Always leave the other buckle connected leaving a permanent loop. That is the dark brown webbing in the photo above.

Just slip that loop over the head. Rotate the loop around the neck until the D-ring is laying on the dog’s chest. Now you have to connect the two buckle ends. Wrap the longer webbing strap under the belly and connect it on the other side. Just make sure that it is snug.

It is one of the easiest harnesses to put on and take off after you’ve done it a couple of times. It’s not one of those harnesses that you have to get one leg in and then the next leg.

Just place the webbing loop over the head and wrap the other strap under and around the body. Connect the buckle and you’re done.

Instructions on How to Use the Easy Walk Harness for Training

Now for the reason why it is so good. A dog that constantly pulls or walks circles around you is a problem. You could trip on the leash or drop it. That’s the behavior you need to change.

When you first use it, tug on the leash each time your dog starts to pull or moves in a different direction. And you may have to pull on the leash every few seconds – and that’s the annoying part.

With the leash connected to their chest, each time you pull, it slightly trips them up. Harnesses with a connection point on the back don’t do much. It may slow them down, but that’s the wrong approach to changing a dog’s behavior.

So each time they start to pull you give a gentle tug on the leash and that slightly pulls them towards you. Each tug alters the way they are walking and that should slow them down. Within a few days to a week you should see a radical change.

Sizing, Fitting and Other Details

The harness basically has three webbing sections: the back, the belly or bottom strap, and the part that lays on the chest. The chest and backing webbing are what forms the loop that you place over the head. The webbing that goes under your dog is what you use to connect the harness.

Place the loop on and connect the belly buckle and see how it fits. You should only be able to fit 1-2 fingers in between the webbing and your dog. Just tighten the webbing for each section if it is looser than that.

There are 3 places to tighten or loosen the harness. The webbing on the back has one adjuster. The other two are on either side of the D-ring.

As for sizing, just search online for “easy walk harness sizing chart”. You need to measure the chest from behind the legs up to and around the back.

Then check the charts for the best size realizing that there are adjustments that can be made. It’s probably best to go larger and tighten it then to find out you bought one that is too small.

Final Tip & Price of the Easy Walk Harness

A final tip I have is for dogs with body shapes that allow them to slip out of the harness. Another feature of this harness is that dogs can’t slip out unless they have long bodies like dachshunds. But there are some other breeds that may slip out of the harness.

To prevent that from happening use a collar along with the harness. Attach the leash to the D-ring on the harness and then to the collar. Swing the connection for the collar to just above the D-ring and you should be able to connect the leash to it as well. I don’t see how any dog could get out of that.

The retail price for the Harness for my dog (55-60 lbs) was approximately $26 US when I bought it about 7 years ago. Though on Amazon they seem to be around $20. I would assume there is a difference in price for smaller or larger dogs.

Feel free to email me with any questions or leave a comment about your experiences with the Easy Walk Harness.

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